Les Gorges du Verdon

Last weekend, Kirstyn, Emily and I took a trip to spend the weekend at our friend Mathilde’s house. 

The train journey was in itself incredible, as we took a tiny little train all the way up into and through the Alps. The sun was starting to set, and we saw mountains, valleys, wild flowers, sheep gamboling in the fields, and lots of old people who would wave at the train as it passed by the bottom of their gardens.

The next day we drove to the Gorges du Verdon – Europe’s biggest canyon don’t you know! They’re more famous though, for their incredible bright blue/green colour, which is just BREATHTAKING, especially when the sun is shining. After a picnic including some delicious quiche handmade by Mathilde, we decided to have a go on a pedalo. 

It was pretty windy…

But passing through the Gorge itself was an amazing experience which felt like entering another world. I haven’t adjusted these colours at all!

As Mathilde would say, ‘Perfect!’

 

Even this trip reminded me of the faithfulness of God, even in the small things. Before moving to Nice I was researching the region and looking at things to do here. I read about the gorges and had recommendations from various friends that they were a must, but being over 3 hours away and a car being necessary to get there, I had accepted the fact that maybe this would have to be something that happened another time. Yet, 3 weeks before I leave this place, I get the chance to go and see this awesome creation with my own eyes. Thank you. 

Sometimes I feel like I’m in Barcelona…

Here are a few visual highlights from my recent trip to Barcelona…

The Sagrada Familia – WOW. Gave me goosebumps just walking round it. If that’s what God-given talent in a man can do, then Heaven is going to be amazing (but you already knew that). I’d love to go back in 20 years when it’s finished – they’ve been building it for 100 years!

Me and my travelling buddy Kirstyn enjoying the sunset and the view over Barcelona (even if the town planners could have arranged it so that the sun set over the sea…we’ll let that one slide just this once)

Incredible freshly pressed juice at La Boqueria market, for the amazing price of 1 euro. I tried Kiwi, and Strawberry & Mango.

An amazing front to a patisserie on Las Ramblas, the main pedestrian street through Barcelona from Placa Catalunya down to the waterfront.

Wandering round El Gotic, the gothic quarter, was nothing like Vieux Nice, even if the streets are just as old and narrow. The feel was much darker, and there were lots of interesting shops and street art, like this one:

The park was full of performers, including one man blowing enormous bubbles. I’m pretty pleased with how this shot turned out.

April was also my last month of work! 7 months has flown by so quickly, and I’m staying here another month in the hopes of ‘Profitez-ing’ a bit more and also doing some uni work in the sun. I got lots of lovely leaving presents, including a card from the students titled ‘Good luck Katty’, with messages such as ‘I ❤ linking word’ and ‘thanks for your knowledge’. It has been difficult at times when the bus journeys have felt neverending, or just when what I say seems to go in one ear and out the other, but all in all, I have learnt a lot about teaching in these seven months. And discovered a deeper appreciation for the British education system…

Ventimiglia

Given that the Italian border is a mere 45 minutes from Nice by train, a couple of day rips with visitors who had never been to  Italy before had to be done. Friday is the day to visit Ventimiglia, as the otherwise quiet and sleepy town is transformed into a bustling market place (and French will get you pretty far in this border town, when your 5 words of Italian run out).

The indoor market is filled with giant jewel coloured fruits, vegetables and flowers:

 

 

Whilst the outdoor market sprawls for miles and can be divided into two categories –

The food sellers, giving out yummy free samples to all who walk by. I  bought some authentic Italian pesto for just 3 euro.

 

The rest of the vendors are selling much more markety things, along the lines of ‘This probably fell off the back of a lorry’. Genuine Chanel perfume for 5 euros, Longchamp bags for 2 euro…HMM. No wonder the French police are ready to hand out up to 10000 euro fines for people caught buying fakes. Add in people selling the same splat toys and iphone covers every five minutes and it can start to feel like you’re stuck in a Scooby Doo cartoon where the background repeats over and over again. After being approached by a shady man asking if we wanted to buy a Rolex (this actually happens, and he was wearing a big coat), market fatigue was declared and we set off in search of food. First time round, it was delicious ravioli in the old town with Nicola, Emily and Kirstyn. Round 2 was great pizza bought in the market place with the sis. And of course cannolis are a must…

I loved this old lady with her basket of knitting, it’s just such a chilled out lifestyle. 

 

Happy Easter

“Why do you look for the living among the dead? He is not here; he has risen!” Luke 24: 5-6

Happy day of celebrating the fact that Jesus died for us and for all our sins and rose again so that we don’t have to be separated from God but can enjoy and experience a relationship with him and life to the full! (Bit of a mouthful, so Happy Easter for short!)

Here are some pictures from a recent trip to St Jean Cap Ferrat, a beautiful peninsular to the east of Nice. The weather was perfect for walking all the way along the peninsular, experiencing (and dodging) the crashing waves, admiring the lighthouse up close (normally I watch the light sweep round over the bay from my bus stop every morning) and feeling very windswept and on the edge of the world.

Cactus graffiti - I'd like to think that this is somebody's Grandma and Granddad declaring their love for each other...

A staircase leading to the sea. We sat and watched the waves for a while and left behind a message for whoever would come after us; I wonder if anyone found it?

Carneval bingo

Carnaval

It’s Carnaval here in Nice, and so here is my top 10 list of people you will see in the city over the festive period. Feel free to use this as a bingo sheet!

1. Rich pensioners – this one is an easy start, as they are everywhere this fortnight! Arriving by the coachload from all over the continent, they sit and watch the parades. Look at the rows of silver hair:

2.Italians in their furs – never mind that the sun is shining and there are people sunbathing, those from the Rivieras, whether Italian or French, still feel the cold and wrap up in their fur coats which are (probably) as old as they are.

3.French old ladies who come to feel loved when a ‘handsome young’ man hands them a flower…and will also fight you to the death for that last gerbera. Good luck!

4. The lesser spotted French person in fancy dress – this does not happen outside of Carneval, so savoure-bien le moment.

5.Japanese women in kimonos – a challenge but spotted in the zone pietonne just before the bataille des fleurs

6. Us at Carnaval – us at the Bataille des Fleurs, catching flowers, throwing confetti, dancing in the street, pure joy!

7. Us not at Carnaval – I’m normally far too British to ring my bike bell, but Carnaval forces me to ding it incessantly – straying unexpectedly onto the cycle path being a tourist’s favourite hobby. Giving up on being able to get anywhere on time and locking the bike up.

8. Scary performers who will kill your flowers – and if your name is Laura, try to stick their finger up your nose. NOT COOL.

9. The Queen – she’s pretty hard to miss. Great Britain is the guest of honour this year due to the 2012 Olympics. Bonus points if you notice that Kate and Wills are riding on segways.

10. Behind the scenes – if you stick around long enough, or happen to be walking through place Massena late at night, you will see this highly co-ordinated team, cleaning up everybody’s confetti and silly string with giant leaf blowers.  Moving like a cross between a synchronised swimming team and a group of detectives combing an area for clues.

How many did you see?

Mashed potatoes and Mountain views

In our apartment here in Nice we mostly live off fruit (kiwis and apples) and vegetables (Mexican selection, frozen bags retailing at around EUR 1.99). As a result, whenever we eat a meal at a restaurant, it tastes a million times better to our little pauper taste buds.

Case in point was a couple of weeks ago, when some girls from the GBU and I went to eat at La Rossettisserie. It’s hard to find as it was formerly a boulangerie, and all of the signs outside the restaurant haven’t changed. When you do locate it, you step inside and it’s so small! There are places for about 20 diners, max. We were a group of four so we were sat round the end of a larger table for twelve with two other parties.

The cosy atmosphere is matched by the cosy and simple food. There is a choice of 4 roasted meats and 3 accompaniments, and that is it! I had poulet rôti with purée (aka roast chicken and potatoes). Delicious! Better still though, was the quality time we got to spend in each other’s company. I’ve known Emily since my first week here in Nice, but Kirstyn and Mathilde are newer friends and so it was great to get to know them a bit better. Very encouraging to be surrounded by women who love Jesus.

That weekend, a bunch of my friends had gone off to London for the weekend. I knew they would have an amazing time, and part of me wanted to go with, but I decided it probably wasn’t sensible as I live 45 minutes away from the city normally! Instead I sent them off with a list of my favourite things to do, and received a lovely picture of the Queen in return. She’s regally looking at my desk as I write (and probably tutting inwardly at how messy it is).

So, I became an honorary Canadian for the day and took a trip up to St Paul de Vence with Emily and her friends. I’d already visited but it was really beautiful to see the snowy mountains as a backdrop. I really like wandering around all the Cimitières here, if I can say that without seeming too morbid, as they are so silent and peaceful, and something about all of the pale stone is very soothing.

Vence is just one winding mountain road away from St Paul, so we grabbed the next bus to have a look around. I don’t think we gave Vence a chance to shine, as there was still some snow on the ground there, and it was really really really cold! The old town was beautiful but oddly deserted, and combined with the clouds that had rolled over and these creepy trees, the whole place had a rather eerie feel. We also trekked all the way over the Matisse chapel to find it closed¸ which was a shame as I have heard good things about it. It’s all white inside but with really colourful stained glass. I hope to return there when the weather is a bit nicer.

Last weekend was a weekend away with the GBU, the Christian student group here in France, and I’ll write about that in another post, this one is rambling enough!

Can you tell what it is yet?

Look closely, can you see what is missing from these photographs?

What if I tell you that today has been declared a Snow Day? Aha.

This is one of those moments when I love French logic. All the buses are cancelled in the entire region for the whole day because it might snow this evening. There is snow on higher ground but none here on the coast yet. I am coming to the conclusion that my plan to avoid winter altogether this year probably won’t work…

So for today it is all too tempting to put on my horrendously 80s cardigan (confession, I’m actually wearing it right now), curl up under the blankets with a mug of hot chocolate and read. Whilst doing this occasionally is no problem, and arguably even necessary to restore order, I am aware that here in Nice, with a much lighter workload, it’s all to easy to curl up in a warm nest. Even when travelling. I want to step out of my comfort zone, both in France and in my walk with God. It’s scary and sometimes the blankets call your name (and the hot chocolate!) but I need to do it, to persevere, to take risks. Because that’s where all the fun is.

Coucou les Alpes!

Saturday was mountain day! We took the bus up to Isola 2000 which is close to the Italian border, in the Southern Alps. The journey took 2 and a half hours, and buses and I aren’t always the best of friends, but this was 100% worth it. We followed the Var river upstream closer to its source, driving along the steep V-shaped valley (merci GCSE Geography!) as palm trees turned to pine trees, it got narrower and narrower, and the valley sides got steeper and steeper until they turned into mountains.

We passed dozens of hilltop villages, some of them appearing to teeter on the brink, with all the houses piled up on top of each other and a church tower crowning every one. As we got nearer the Alps we drove through tunnels carved through the hillside. The descriptions we found for it were the ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ Disney ride, and Mario Kart.Isn’t it weird the descriptions have gone full circle and we are now using the man made to described the natural (and maybe a bit sad?) We all thought it though – I even saw a little dilapidated rope bridge missing a few wooden slats…

Then we passed the snow line and we were there! There was snow everywhere, and everytime we turned the corner of the hairpin bends, there were the Alps in full view. It was so sunny for a January day. And how beautiful! It felt great just to be on top of a mountain and breathe really deeply, it was such a good feeling!

Surrounded by snow and pine trees, Laura and I chilled (literally, sorry, I couldn’t resist) on some deck chairs on the mountainside while the others skied and snowboarded down the slopes. We drank hot chocolate in probably the most memorable setting of my life, and then moved inside when we couldn’t feel our toes to warm up with some vin chaud and crepes au nutella.

Miam miam

A slightly hairy moment occurred when we thought we were going to miss the last bus back to Nice and be stranded in the mountains overnight ( would that really have been such a bad thing?) but we made it in the nick of time and half dozed, half watched the sunset fade over the mountains on our way home.

It was so beautiful that no words I use can really justify it at all. Mountains are such powerful imagery used to show the awesome might of nature and our Creator, that it was almost a bit surreal to actually be on a proper one. Now whenever I sing of the mountains trembling or soaring above them, I have a real mental picture to help me envisage it. Result.

Monaco, darling

For the princely sum of one euro we took a trip to Monaco. The bus journey alone is worth the price, as it’s along winding coastal roads with views of seaside villages and local ports. It was the last weekend of the Christmas markets, so we got our last vin chaud of the season and pottered about, whilst watching a Rio de Janeiro style carnival come past for five minutes and then disappear. It was my first time in Monaco so I have no idea if that was Monegasque normal.

For the first weekend in January it was warm! We took in the scenery and shed layers simultaneously.

I found the port side area a little strange as there are lots of yachts and practically skyscraper style apartment blocks, and it just looks a bit sad. Up in Monte Carlo you can see the hotels and casinos which give Monaco its deluxe reputation. Being with fearless Americans (and an equally fearless Canadian) we actually went inside the Hotel de Paris for a little peek. I think the concierge knew we weren’t there to inquire about bookings somehow.

My favourite part of Monaco was the old town. It was so quiet and peaceful in the area surrounding the palace. Everything felt light and airy and relaxing. There was also this gigantic photo frame which frames the view over the port, so we couldn’t resist taking this beauty:

As  I am such a dutiful daughter, I did take pictures of some of the cars we saw, though I fully admit I haven’t got a clue what they are.

As an aside, recent activities also include: seeing La Delicatesse, a beautiful film in a cinema with the most comfortable chairs ever (Le Rialto), finding a château behind our apartment and sunbathing on the beach.

Nice Old and New

Happy new year everybody! I hope it’s a year filled with joy, peace and love for everyone.

2012 is here, and what better way to celebrate than by sharing some old pictures of Nice with you? My friend’s parents visited Nice in the 80s and bought a guide book ‘To Love and Know Nice’, which they kindly sent me when they heard I was moving out here (thanks VP and JP!).

I looked through it before moving out here, but seeing it this Christmas when I now know it and love it was really interesting. Especially when my friends Laura and Lane’s apartment makes the front cover:

Nice hasn’t actually changed that much – people still saunter along the Promenade des Anglais, even if it’s not in short shorts and long socks:

From the promenade to the architecture, the English left their mark all over Nice when it was their favourite spot to escape the harsh British winter. Those Victorians had strange taste, this pink castle can be seen east of the port and is aptly named Le Château de l’Anglais:

  Here’s a picture of the fountain in Place Massena with no Apollo statue – you can read why it was removed (and now replaced) here, which is also a really good source of information about all things Nice:

One of the best parts of the book is also the descriptions – the following picture is accompanied by the text which reads – ‘this extended metropolis, sprawled out languidly like a sunbather at sea’s edge, nibbling patiently at the hills where, but yesterday, the olive trees were seen to quiver.’ They do not write guide books like this any more!

I’ll leave you with the final page of the book, just because I love it and I can:

_____________________________________________________________________

The boring legal bit: The book is ‘To love and know Nice’ by Jean Valbonne, ed. Minerva 1982